Discoloration dictionary: everything you need to know
The emergence of techniques with a more natural result and the arrival of less and less aggressive assets offers countless possibilities for lightening the threads. Look here for additional insights: How long to leave bleach in hair 30 vol
Gone are the days when the hair discoloration process considered only golden hair and at any cost. Even though luminous hair is the desire of many women, there is a universe of possible results.
Thanks to advances in the last decades and the updating of professionals, the client has the possibility to find a blonde to call her own.
See below the discoloration dictionary, with the expressions that have appeared over time to fill this universe.
Hydrogen peroxide
In discoloration, it has the function of oxidizing the capillary pigment. This occurs due to the action of oxygen that develops with the decomposition of hydrogen peroxide. “In contact with the hair fibers, the product performs this process, opening the cuticles, advancing to the inner layer of the hair and interacting with the pigments”, explains dermatologist Abdo Salomão, a member of the Brazilian Society of Dermatology and the American Academy of Dermatology .
To reach the ideal whitening, avoiding stained results, it is necessary, in addition to choosing quality products and following the manufacturer's instructions to the letter, to know which volume is appropriate. This depends on the diagnosis made by the professional and the objective.
To always get it right, the following rule applies:
10 volumes - tone on tone
20 volumes - Lighten from 1 to 2 tones
30 volumes - Lighten up to 3 tones
40 volumes - Lighten more than 3 tones
Gone are the days when the hair discoloration process considered only golden hair and at any cost. Even though luminous hair is the desire of many women, there is a universe of possible results.
Thanks to advances in the last decades and the updating of professionals, the client has the possibility to find a blonde to call her own.
See below the discoloration dictionary, with the expressions that have appeared over time to fill this universe.
Hydrogen peroxide
In discoloration, it has the function of oxidizing the capillary pigment. This occurs due to the action of oxygen that develops with the decomposition of hydrogen peroxide. “In contact with the hair fibers, the product performs this process, opening the cuticles, advancing to the inner layer of the hair and interacting with the pigments”, explains dermatologist Abdo Salomão, a member of the Brazilian Society of Dermatology and the American Academy of Dermatology .
To reach the ideal whitening, avoiding stained results, it is necessary, in addition to choosing quality products and following the manufacturer's instructions to the letter, to know which volume is appropriate. This depends on the diagnosis made by the professional and the objective.
To always get it right, the following rule applies:
10 volumes - tone on tone
20 volumes - Lighten from 1 to 2 tones
30 volumes - Lighten up to 3 tones
40 volumes - Lighten more than 3 tones
Ammonia
“It is a chemical component that has the function of opening the hair cuticles for depositing or removing the pigments present in the cortex”, explains Raiane Rodrigues, R&D Aneethun.
Ammonia "inflates" the hair fiber, opening the scales wide open, so that the pigments can be eliminated. It also facilitates the release of oxygen contained in the oxidizer, thus enhancing the effect of hydrogen peroxide.
Erase the background
It occurs when the colorist maintains reflections and blonde highlights, but blurs the passage between root and length, smoothing the transition, leaving it less marked. The goal is to achieve a more natural effect. After bleaching, apply a tint of the original hair color, or a slightly lighter shade, just close to the root and, without taking your eye off the work, watch when it starts to form a gradient between the root and the length with bleached. Once this is identified, rinse to remove the product.
Whaling
Fever in the 1990s, this technique uses a combination of more than a shade of blonde, which can go from lighter to darker, with strands from root to tip. “The work is carried out in sewn layers, alternating the application of bleaching powder and the desired color. Generally, two to three nuances are used in the same hair, creating a light and tone-on-tone effect ”, explains hairstylist Sylvio Rezende (SP).
Babylight
They are superfine strands, sewn and positioned in strategic regions of the hair. The goal is not a big transformation, just to intensify the shine of the locks, creating a more luminous look. The technique, carried out with a bleaching and oxidizing powder of a maximum of 20 volumes, allows a lightening of one to two tones. In other words, the result is very subtle.
“It is a chemical component that has the function of opening the hair cuticles for depositing or removing the pigments present in the cortex”, explains Raiane Rodrigues, R&D Aneethun.
Ammonia "inflates" the hair fiber, opening the scales wide open, so that the pigments can be eliminated. It also facilitates the release of oxygen contained in the oxidizer, thus enhancing the effect of hydrogen peroxide.
Erase the background
It occurs when the colorist maintains reflections and blonde highlights, but blurs the passage between root and length, smoothing the transition, leaving it less marked. The goal is to achieve a more natural effect. After bleaching, apply a tint of the original hair color, or a slightly lighter shade, just close to the root and, without taking your eye off the work, watch when it starts to form a gradient between the root and the length with bleached. Once this is identified, rinse to remove the product.
Whaling
Fever in the 1990s, this technique uses a combination of more than a shade of blonde, which can go from lighter to darker, with strands from root to tip. “The work is carried out in sewn layers, alternating the application of bleaching powder and the desired color. Generally, two to three nuances are used in the same hair, creating a light and tone-on-tone effect ”, explains hairstylist Sylvio Rezende (SP).
Babylight
They are superfine strands, sewn and positioned in strategic regions of the hair. The goal is not a big transformation, just to intensify the shine of the locks, creating a more luminous look. The technique, carried out with a bleaching and oxidizing powder of a maximum of 20 volumes, allows a lightening of one to two tones. In other words, the result is very subtle.